Color:
Diamonds can cover the entire spectrum of colors. The majority
range from a perceptible yellow or brownish tint up to the very rare
diamonds described as colorless. Colorless diamonds are the most
desirable since they allow the most refraction of light (sparkle).
Off white diamonds absorb light, inhibiting brilliance. You can
best observe diamond color by placing the stone table side up on a
flat white surface or grading trough, and examining it from different
angles. Next, place it table-side down with the culet facing
you, and examine it through the pavilion facets.
Cut:
Cut has the greatest influence on the diamonds fire and brilliance.
A round, brilliant-cut diamond has 28 facets. When well
proportioned, this shape best shows the stones brilliance because it
allows the most light to be refracted back to the eye of the observer.
Stones that appear lifeless or stones that appear dark in the center
are poorly cut. When the angle relationship between the crown
and pavilion facets is correct, rays of light entering the diamond
strike the rear facets at an angle greater than the critical angle.
(24.5 degrees for diamond), and reflect back to the eye of the
observer. If the stone is cut too deeply the light strikes the
rear facets at an angle less than the critical angle and the light is
lost through the sides of the diamond. If the diamond is cut too
shallow, the light passes through the diamond without being reflected
back. (no sparkle).
Clarity:
Most diamonds contain minute traces of non-crystallized carbon in
internal stress factors. Called inclusions, most of these are
not apparent to the naked eye but can be seen under magnification.
Perfect clarity means that no inclusions are discernible when the
diamond is examined under a 10x magnification lens. Inclusions
greatly effect the beauty and value of a diamond because they absorb
the light rather than allowing it to be reflected back through the
front side of the stone. How much they reduce the value of a
diamond depends on their size, number and position throughout the
stone. An inclusion in the center of the diamond beneath the
table is more visible than one near the edge. The inclusion may
also be mirrored many times by adjoining facets.
Carat Weight:
The term "CARAT" comes from the ancient practice of weighing
diamonds against the seeds of a carob tree. The system was
eventually standardized, and one carat was fixed at 0.2 grams.
One carat is divided into 100 points, so a quarter-carat diamond is 25
points or 0.25 carat. Although carat is a unite of weight, not
size, the carat weight of a diamond has come to refer to particular
sizes. If properly cut, diamonds of the same weight should be
about the same size. These sizes do not apply to other gems,
however, because their specific gravity's differ from a diamond.